Review: River Restaurant at The Savoy Hotel

I had unresolved questions about the warmth of The Savoy Hotel’s welcome and the level of service in its dining rooms. I hoped my lunch booking at River Restaurant Gordon Ramsay at The Savoy could help to provide answers.

I’d been in the same dining room three and a half years earlier, just before the global pandemic shut down the hospitality industry. At that time Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill occupied the space. On that occasion, the welcome to the hotel had been lacklustre and staff at the restaurant’s reception very cool and rather offhand.

On this return visit, the welcome in the foyer was livelier and more friendly. There was no shortage of staff to ensure I found my way to the right area. (And yes, you might need help to find your way around The Savoy!). The welcome at the restaurant’s reception desk was warm.

A Pre-Lunch Cocktail:

Purple Rain Cocktail

The most outstanding element of my previous visit to The Savoy had been a pre-dinner cocktail in the Beaufort Bar. Expecting to replicate that delight, I was heartily disappointed to be told that particular bar does not open until evening. Still, River Restaurant has its own bar so I took a seat at the counter for an aperitif. I gravitate to floral-based drinks and the description of the cocktail “Purple Rain” drew me in. With its perfumed flavours of violet and elderflower and the potency of Malfy Rosa Gin, the cocktail was invigorating. Anything containing essence of violet must be very carefully handled or the outcome could be something resembling a soapy cleaner. This was perfectly balanced. The floral elements offered delicate but perceptible flavours and fragrance. The drink was superb.

Sitting at the bar counter watching the cocktail barman work was surprisingly relaxing.

The Dining Room:

When the time for my lunch booking arrived, I was led through the restaurant to my table. The dining room, with its bright new decor, felt a good deal more airy than it had in its days as Kaspar’s. Art Deco features were in evidence: the colour palette of beiges, black and gold; the metal curves and straight lines of the balustrade; the sleek, curved bar counter. In some respects, stepping into that room with its low ceiling felt reminiscent of walking into the dining room of an ocean liner.

The restaurant was busy and some of the tables in the dining room seemed a little close together but the seat I was offered was comfortable and it came with a view of the Thames.

The Food:

I’m a great fan of set menus. In general, they offer very good value. They provide the opportunity to taste dishes devised by well-respected chefs at modest prices. On this occasion, the dishes on the set menu did not especially appeal so I decided to brave the bill and choose a la carte.

Starting with baked scallops with seaweed and lime butter, the shellfish were juicy and extremely tender. The flavours of lime and seaweed were refreshing and powerful. It was a simply but thoughtfully devised and well-executed dish. Excellent malted sourdough and softly whipped, seasoned butter accompanied the course

Then the main course. I surprised myself with my choice. I’d travelled a long way to dine at one of the most renowned hotels in the country and chose a humble plate of fish and chips. My previous experience of fish and chips at another of Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants undoubtedly influenced my decision. The dish I’d eaten at Plane Food at Heathrow Airport had been the best I’d tasted.

This fish was soft and tender, the batter light and crunchy. Unfortunately, the fish had been positioned onto a bed of crushed peas which had the effect of making a section of the batter turn soggy rather quickly. The chips, served separately, were golden and crunchy and the interiors fluffy. The tartare sauce had a different consistency from the Plane Food version. The solid ingredients were more finely chopped, resulting in a less chunky sauce with more of a flowing quality. On balance, the dish was good.

I had caused the sommelier something of a headache in helping me find a well-matched wine. Having been offered a couple of small samples, nothing seemed to be working for me. Then I realised what might have been contributing to the problem. Still in the lingering recovery phase from a Covid infection, I realised my sense of taste might not be fully back to normal. The further suggestion of a sparkling wine to match both the scallop dish and fish and chips was a very good one.

I felt very full after these two courses but just wanted something to round off the meal. I chose two scoops of ice-cream; one of pistachio and the other coconut. The flavours were delicate and fragranced.

Prices:

The current price for two courses from the set menu is £37.00 and £45.00 for three. A La Carte main courses range from £25.00 for a risotto and up to £65.00 for Beef Wellington.

Cocktails range from £19.00 to a very steep £33.00. Wines, by the glass start at £12.00. Bottles of wine start from £65.00 but ascend into thousands of pounds (for example, if Pomerol wines are your choice).

A 15% service charge is added to the bill. There is the proviso that this is ‘discretionary’, leaving room for the diner to make a decision if they haven’t been satisfied with the level of service received. A 15% addition for service is more than many other restaurants charge, however.

Accessibility:

The Savoy’s website states that: “Our Restaurants and Bars on site offer wheelchair accessibility.” I used stairs to descend from the foyer area into the River Restaurant so I would advise contacting the hotel in advance to get more detail about access routes and lifts within the hotel building.

In Summary:

So, did The Savoy redeem itself? In terms of welcome and service, it did. I would now feel more inclined to consider one of the hotel’s bars or restaurants on a future occasion.

River Restaurant’s menu seems devised to supply popular classics. Clearly, the chef understands his clientele and provides what they are looking for.

For visitors to London, this restaurant could be a good option. Sometimes, surroundings and atmosphere are as important as the menu when deciding where to eat. River Restaurant provides a welcome opportunity to taste The Savoy experience.

A final question: Did River Restaurant’s fish and chips rate as the best I’ve ever eaten? No. Plane Food is still the proud holder of that illustrious title!