On a hot, late summer’s day last year and after lingering at the Victoria and Albert Museum just a little too long, the walk from South Kensington to the St James’s district of London was more tiring than anticipated. Stepping into the cool, airy interior of The Stafford Hotel was a welcome relief.

Pre-Lunch Cocktail

The American Bar has historical transatlantic connections – as the collection of memorabilia adorning the walls and ceilings can testify. It is well worth taking time to view these fascinating artefacts. It is also a comfortable and inviting space and I quickly began to feel relaxed.

This bar is highly acclaimed for its cocktails and it is very difficult to make a choice from the extensive menu. There are many much-loved classics along with seasonal formulations. I took the opportunity to sample the summer cocktails list before that season drew to a close, choosing “A Day in Provence“. Summery, fragrant, invigorating – it was a perfect way to lead into a leisurely lunch on this warm London day.

The accompanying mini bowls of savoury nibbles – roasted nuts and spiced rice crackers – were delicious and it was difficult to resist overindulging and spoiling lunch.

As I sipped my drink, I realised my lunchtime table booking was getting close and the cocktail was far too good to rush. After speaking with a bar team member, they made a quick phone call to the restaurant on my behalf, and I settled in for a little while longer, savouring the cocktail and the relaxing atmosphere.

The Dining Room

As you walk into The Game Bird you notice the spacious, airy feel of the dining room. Ornate features – cornices, painted pilasters with Corinthian capitals, dados and panelling – are reminiscent of a grand stately home. Muted but rich grey tones of the walls and upholstery evoke the English Country House style. Leather-seated dining chairs are a reminder of the hotel’s history as an officer’s club for American and Canadian Officers during World War II. The seat backs are covered in a bright, chintzy fabric with images of flowers, foliage, and – of course – game birds, which adds a vibrant and witty contrast to the classical setting.

I was warmly welcomed by the staff and shown to my table. Dining alone, I was delighted to find that the table chosen for me perfectly matched my request, a quiet spot in the room. My location still afforded a feeling of spaciousness. Each of the waiting staff approached and introduced themselves as the meal progressed. I found all of them to be friendly, engaging, and knowledgeable about the dishes and wines.

The Menu

It had taken me a long time to dine at The Game Bird. In part, that had been down to the restaurant’s name! Mistakenly, I had imagined the choice would be limited to game dishes and little else. The restaurant does indeed specialise in game dishes – as the display cabinets in the dining room will attest – but much more is offered. The menu has a range of dishes which will have broad appeal.

Emphasis is placed on good quality, seasonal produce. Dishes are created with imagination and a contemporary flair but the chefs also dig deep into the history of traditional British fare and classic favourites.

Traditional Sunday Lunch is renowned at the restaurant and it’s a matter of regret that my schedule prevents me from trying it!

The Food

A good chef is able to source the very best ingredients and prepare them in such a way as to yield the maximum flavour. A really good chef can do this with the humblest of ingredients. That skill was on display with my courgette-themed starter course. A core element of ravioli with an array of courgette garnishes made a unified dish with a finish of light, creamy sauce and vibrant herb oil. Silky pasta, flavour-packed sauce and crunchy fried courgettes matchsticks provided a balanced variety of textures.

A delicious, pillowy, brioche-style bun had arrived just before the starter along with a generous helping of butter and sea salt. I commented to the waitress how good the bread tasted and within moments, another beautifully fresh golden bun was delivered.

Details such as these may seem small but, for me, they are a measure of the hospitality of a restaurant. My upbringing coupled with time spent in southern Europe later in life has left me with an understanding that bread is an integral part of a meal and should be readily available on the table for diners, whether at home or in a restaurant.

Interaction with staff is also part of the experience I enjoy when dining out. Staff appreciate the appreciation of the diner and the customer enjoys learning from enthusiastic staff about the ingredients used and the methods utilised in producing dishes.

I often seek out seafood dishes on a menu and on such a warm day, a lighter main course seemed a good option. It was a good decision. Flaky, moist, perfectly seasoned cod contrasted well with the texture of hot oysters in their crisp breadcrumb coating – juicy and tasting of the sea. The herb emulsion and caramelised spring onion were just enough to enhance the seafood while allowing it to remain the focal point.

I have often claimed that dessert is my least favourite part of a meal and that I could skip that course without missing it. This time, aware of the input of Lisa Goodwin-Allen in devising the menu, I anticipated dessert with great enthusiasm.

The choice I was given was as follows:

I could have happily chosen any of those options. (Or all of them!) Once again, my preference for lighter food on that warm day led me to pick the lemon meringue parfait. The presentation of the dish was never going to be ordinary, not from that kitchen. Still, I was surprised – and delighted – by the fun and imagination shown in the dish.

Light, refreshing, sharp, sweet – the dish was packed with flavour and contrasting textures. Basil gel added fragrance, warmth and, of course, colour! It was a fitting way to end a late summer lunch.

Commencing my hotel visit with an excellent cocktail had set the bar high for drinks. The recommended wines to accompany both starter and main courses were equally impressive. The sommelier spoke with enthusiasm about the choice of matching wines. As I’ve learned over the years, listening to this advice not only enhances the food, it also enhances the wine. That said, I was offered small samples to ensure I would enjoy each selection.

To finish the meal, I was served probably the best coffee I’ve ever had in a restaurant. Once again, the ease of conversation with the staff was evident when I enquired about the coffee supplier (wondering whether I’d be able to obtain some for home use!). The information I sought was readily given. With the coffee came lovely petits fours – a fruit jelly and a hand-made chocolate – and I was offered a pretty box to take the sweets to eat later if I preferred.

Accessibility

Both the American Bar and The Game Bird restaurant are situated on the ground floor of The Stafford Hotel, as are the Ladies and Gents toilets.

There are three steps from street level into the hotel’s main entrance on St James’s Place. Wheelchair users can access the hotel via the rear entrance in Blue Ball Yard which is step-free. (Contact the hotel directly for further information if needed.)

Prices

Drinks are pricey. Cocktails currently range from £20.50 to £25 (£15 for a non-alcoholic cocktail) and wines by the glass start from £13 (175ml glass) and rise.

Most main course dishes on the A La Carte Menu range between £24.50 to £46 (or up to £62 if you want to go for the Dover Sole Meunière).

As is often the case in ‘fine dining’ restaurants – good value can be found in their set menus. The Game Bird offers “All Day Dining” from an A La Carte list but also has set menus. A “Seasonal Express Lunch Menu” offers two courses for £40.00, 3 for £50.00 and is available between 12 noon and 4.30pm Monday to Saturday. What appears to be pretty much the same choice – for the same price – is then available from 4.30pm to 6.30pm under the heading of “Pre-Theatre Menu”.

I chose to ‘mix-and-match’ the “Seasonal Express Lunch Menu” last summer with the full dessert menu. I thought the set menu offered excellent value and I was delighted that there was no pressure to experience the “express” element in terms of the service I received! It was a very relaxed affair and it was made clear I was welcome to linger and enjoy the food and atmosphere. Admittedly, I was in London at a time of year when restaurants are less likely to be bustling with business people. Perhaps, had it been busy, I may have been required to vacate my table a little sooner.

A final note on this theme: bear in mind that “A discretionary service charge of 15% will be added to your bill. (A note for overseas visitors – “All prices are inclusive of VAT.” You won’t get a further surprise by the addition of this national tax when you are handed your bill.)

Comment

The Stafford Hotel has understated hints of grandeur but it remains comfortable and inviting. The quality of food and drink offered is excellent and the attention to detail is noticeable. The hotel has carefully selected items to enhance the guest experience with lavish floral displays, interesting artworks and little luxuries such as the exquisite Penhaligon’s soap in the washroom.

Enjoying the services the hotel has to offer comes at a price. In my view, the set menus provide an opportunity to enjoy a visit to The Game Bird without spending a fortune. Bear in mind, though, that drinks and the service charge can increase the bill beyond initial expectations.

If you visit this restaurant expecting well-prepared food, excellent drinks, and attentive service, you won’t be disappointed. If you appreciate that you’re also paying for the experience of spending time in the surroundings of this historic establishment with all its modern comforts, I believe you’ll get good value for your money.

Details

Executive Chef: Jozef Rogulski (working in collaboration with Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the Michelin-Starred Executive Chef at Northcote in Lancashire.

Address:  The Stafford London, 16-18 St James’s Place, London, SW1A 1NJ

Telephone Reservations:  +44 (0) 2075181234

Email: dining@thestaffordlondon.com

Website:  https://thestaffordlondon.com/the-game-bird/

Dress Code: Smart casual.

Amazilia Peacock : 11 July 2024

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An abbreviated version of this review appears on tripadvisor.co.uk under the profile Aileron (@aileron777 ).

Photo Credits:  All photographs © AP with the exception of the street view of The Stafford Hotel:

Photo 132401754 | London © Chris Mouyiaris | Dreamstime.com