Stepping into the sitting room in the Capital Hotel is a little like walking into the private apartment of a grand country house. The architecture, fittings and decor have subtle hints of country house grandeur but the room is so much more intimate than that. It’s homely. You feel as if the chatelaine has invited you into her cosy private parlour.
That said, it’s so cosy and compact that this is not a place to meet a dining companion for a quiet and private conversation, the seats and tables are too closely spaced to allow for that.* What you do notice, however, is an atmosphere which is welcoming and convivial yet still maintaining an air of gentility and tradition.
Afternoon tea begins, traditionally, with delicately cut sandwiches and I was presented with very traditional fare. There was nothing avant garde here but four neat finger sandwiches made with very fresh bread and flavoursome fillings. The sandwiches contained smoked salmon, egg mayonnaise, tuna and cucumber and beautifully succulent wafer thin roast beef with rocket.
Next came two very fresh fruit scones accompanied by those essentials of the Afternoon Tea ritual – clotted cream and strawberry jam. I felt in need of a rest before I tackled the final course, the cakes, and I seemed completely at liberty to take a pause before I continued. There was no feeling of being rushed by the staff who returned to my table intermittently to replenish my tea.
Sufficiently rested, I moved on to the final course and, some may say, the highlight of Afternoon Tea: the cakes.
First, a little light-as-a-puff-of-air choux bun with a crispy, crackled topping. ( Is this the pastry which is termed “Choux au Craquelin”? I really ought to have asked!)
The rich cream filling was balanced with a sweet but sharp filling of fragrant compressed apple. This little pastry was an absolute delight.
Next on the menu, a cream cake which was, in my opinion, the star of the show; matcha sponge with cream and fruit filling. If I remember rightly, the fruit was passionfruit but I was evidently too engrossed in the experience to mess around taking detailed notes! The cake was moist, light and had beautifully balanced and delicate flavours.
And to finish, a chocolate and peanut flavoured pastry with a moist base, a crunchy centre and a ganache topping. Delicious!
I chose Earl Grey tea to accompany the food but other black teas, green tea and herbal infusions were also listed on the menu. I can’t comment on the way allergies or dietary needs would be met for this meal, as I had none to be addressed.
Traditional Afternoon Tea for one is priced at £35 which, for a 5 star hotel in central London, is modest. Being in town for a training programme and hence dining alone, I opted for wine by the glass but I thought the £75 charge for Afternoon Tea for two people with a bottle of Prosecco included was very good value. An even more attractive option ( in my view ) would be to swap the fizz for a bottle of champagne to accompany Afternoon Tea for two at an inclusive cost of £95.
Summary:
This restaurant maintains the best of English Afternoon Tea traditions. The food is neither pretentious nor flamboyant but simply represents classic British food prepared imaginatively. The environment of understated luxury offers a relaxing and enjoyable atmosphere.
Executive Chef: Adam Simmonds ( at the time of the visit featured in this review ).
Details: The Capital Hotel
22 – 24 Basil Street
London SW3 1AT
Telephone: 0207 591 1200
Website: http://www.warwickhotels.com/the-capital/dining
* Please note that the table arrangements and seat spacing described in this review refer to the time period prior to the outbreak of the Covid-19 pandemic. Any enquiries regarding Covid-19 Health and Safety Protocols should be made directly with the hotel.
amaziliapeacock : 1 March 2021
Capital Letters 